The short answer
To clean a mirror without streaks, use warm water and two soft microfibre cloths: one barely damp to lift the dirt, one dry to buff the glass straight away. Spray or wet the cloth, never the mirror, and wipe in overlapping S-shapes from top to bottom. If water alone is not enough, a pH-neutral glass cleaner (around pH 7) is the strongest thing a good mirror needs.
What you should not use is just as important: no vinegar, no ammonia, no lemon or other acids, no aggressive chemicals. That is not folk wisdom — it is written into the care instructions in our terms, because those products can reach the edge of the glass and attack the reflective layer from the side.
What you need — and what to leave in the cupboard
| Use | Avoid |
| Warm tap water (distilled water if your water is hard) | Vinegar and vinegar-based cleaners |
| Two clean, lint-free microfibre cloths | Ammonia window sprays |
| A pH-neutral glass cleaner, around pH 7 | Lemon juice, citric acid, limescale removers |
| A soft, dry brush for carved frames | Scouring pads, abrasive powders, razor blades |
| Clean paper towels for a final buff | Detergents of any kind on the frame |
Microfibre does most of the work. Its fibres hold grease and dust instead of pushing them around, which is why it leaves fewer streaks than a cotton tea towel. Wash the cloths without fabric softener: softener coats the fibres and is one of the most common hidden causes of a smeared finish.
Why not vinegar? The problem starts at the edge
A mirror is a sheet of glass with a thin reflective metal layer on the back, sealed with protective paint. The front of the glass is very resistant. The weak point is the cut edge, where the reflective layer meets the air.
When you spray a cleaner directly onto the glass, the liquid runs down and collects along the bottom edge and in the gap behind the frame. Acidic and ammonia-based products that sit there for months can attack the reflective layer from the side. The result is the dark, creeping marks you see on old bathroom mirrors, often called black edge — and once they appear, they do not polish out.
So the two rules work together: the right product (warm water or pH-neutral cleaner) and the right technique (liquid on the cloth, not on the glass). Our warranty terms also exclude mechanical damage caused by improper installation, maintenance or use — one more reason to keep the routine this simple.
Streak-free in five minutes, step by step
- Dust first. Run a dry microfibre cloth over the glass and a soft brush over the frame. Wiping dust with a wet cloth turns it into a grey film.
- Dampen, do not soak. Wet the first cloth with warm water and wring it out until it is only just damp.
- Wipe in S-shapes, top to bottom. Overlap each pass and finish each section at the bottom, so nothing drips onto clean glass.
- Buff immediately with the second, completely dry cloth — before the water has time to dry on its own. Streaks are mostly dried residue.
- Check from an angle. Step to the side and look across the glass towards a window or lamp. Marks that are invisible head-on show up at an angle; touch them up with the dry cloth.
Two details make a visible difference. Clean when the mirror is not in direct sunlight, because warm glass dries the water before you can buff it. And keep a separate, clean cloth for mirrors only — a cloth that has been used in the kitchen carries grease from one surface to the next.
A frameless mirror shows its polished edge, so liquid should never be sprayed straight onto the glass.
Frames: dry and gentle
Our care instructions are short on this point: clean frames without detergents. In practice that means:
- Hand-carved, gilded or patinated wooden frames — a soft, dry brush or a dry microfibre cloth to lift dust from the carving. No water running into the recesses, no polish, no sprays. Work around the frame before you clean the glass, so dust does not fall onto a mirror you have just buffed.
- Slim aluminium frames in brushed gold, rose gold round mirror frames or matte black — a dry or very lightly damp microfibre cloth, then dry immediately. Brushed finishes show smears in the direction of the brushing, so wipe along the grain.
- Frameless mirrors — the polished edge is exposed, so it is the part to treat most carefully. Wipe it with the damp cloth, then dry it at once, and make sure no water is left standing on the bottom edge.
Carved frames collect dust in the detail: a soft dry brush reaches it without any liquid.
Large and full-length mirrors
On a mirror of 180 or 200 cm, the water dries before you reach the bottom if you try to clean the whole surface at once. Divide it into two or three horizontal sections and finish each one — wipe, buff, check — before starting the next.
If the mirror leans against the wall, steady it with one hand while you wipe with the other and do not push hard on the middle of the glass. A leaning mirror should be secured to the wall at the top anyway; our guide on how to hang a mirror safely explains how, and why the inspection before hanging matters for your warranty.
How often to clean
For most mirrors in a living room, hallway or bedroom, a quick dry dusting once a week and a full damp clean when you see marks is enough. Hallway mirrors next to the front door collect fingerprints faster; mirrors near a kitchen collect a fine film of grease and benefit from the pH-neutral cleaner every few weeks. The less often the glass is soaked, the better for its edges.
Mirrors that are easy to look after
Every Reflessa mirror uses 4 mm Optiwhite glass and is made to order in our workshop in Wrocław, Poland — production time is stated in our shipping policy. Delivery across Europe is free for sizes up to 120 × 60 cm and round mirrors up to Ø 80 cm; €100 flat for larger sizes — the exact amount shows in your cart.
- Solaro — round, slim brushed gold aluminium frame, eight diameters from 60 to 200 cm. A smooth metal frame is the quickest of all to keep clean: one dry wipe along the grain.
- Golden Majesty — hand-carved frame in sustainably sourced wood with a gold patina, 8.5 cm wide, fifteen formats from 50 × 100 to 100 × 180 cm. The carving deserves the soft brush, never a spray.
- Aurora — frameless, organic curve, hand-polished edges, five sizes from 120 × 60 to 210 × 100 cm. With no frame there is nowhere for dust to gather — just keep liquid off the edge.
If you like the frameless look, our page on organic mirrors compares all five shapes. And if you're sizing a mirror to hang above a console or sideboard, our guide to the right size above a sideboard covers the proportions to get right first.
Frequently asked questions
How do I clean a mirror without streaks?
Use warm water on a barely damp microfibre cloth, wipe in overlapping S-shapes from top to bottom, and buff straight away with a second dry cloth. Clean out of direct sunlight and check the glass from an angle before you finish.
Can I clean a mirror with vinegar?
We advise against it. Vinegar is an acid, and acidic or ammonia-based cleaners that collect along the edge of the glass can attack the reflective layer from the side and cause dark edge marks. Warm water or a pH-neutral glass cleaner (around pH 7) is enough.
Why does my mirror still have streaks after cleaning?
Usually because the water dried on its own instead of being buffed off, because too much cleaner was used, or because the cloth carries fabric softener or grease. Use less liquid, buff immediately and keep a clean cloth only for mirrors.
How do I clean a gold or carved mirror frame?
Dry and without detergents. Use a soft brush or a dry microfibre cloth for carved and gilded wood, and a dry or very lightly damp cloth wiped along the grain for brushed metal frames. Never let water run into the carving.
What is the black edge on old mirrors?
Dark marks that creep in from the edge of a mirror, caused when moisture and aggressive cleaning products reach the reflective layer at the cut edge. They cannot be polished away, which is why liquid should go on the cloth, not on the glass.
Last updated: 8 October 2026